Lukas Baumgartner’s authentic cuisine

Mr Baumgartner, who are you and what drives you?

My name is Lukas Baumgartner, I’m 30 years old and I’m originally from Upper Swabia, from a small village near Biberach. I now live by Lake Schluchsee, where I work as deputy head chef at the Auerhahn restaurant in the hotel of the same name.

And what drives me? Above all, I’m passionate about fine dining – and the fine-tuning that goes into a dish.

And if we were to ask your closest colleagues who Lukas Baumgartner really is – what would they say?

That’s always a difficult question to answer. I hope they’d say that I’m a good friend. We’re a very close-knit team and enjoy doing lots of things together outside of work. But of course, I’m also their boss. In day-to-day work, I’m probably the calm presence. Someone who helps out when things get tough, and who you can rely on.

Was there a moment when you knew: ‘This isn’t just a job, this is going to be my life’?

I find it quite difficult to single out one specific moment. It was more of a gradual process. The training was tough at the start. You have to learn to perform under pressure and work quickly. At some point, though, you realise that the work is paying off. You become more confident, learn a lot and develop self-belief.

A defining moment was certainly when we were awarded the Michelin star back in Freiburg (at the Zirbelstube restaurant in the Hotel Colombi, editor’s note). I wasn’t head chef or sous-chef at the time, but I was part of the team. Once you’ve experienced something like that, you’re keen to experience that feeling again.

Did you never have any doubts?

Perhaps right at the very start of my training, when I didn’t yet know how to cope with the pressure and expectations. But since then? Never again.

Is there a taste or smell that immediately reminds you of your childhood?

Probably the Bolognese he used to cook. It was more of a ragù, less tomato-based than the version we know here. With white wine, a bit of milk and just a little tomato. That’s a memory that comes flooding back straight away.

How would you describe your own cooking without using the words ‘regional’, ‘seasonal’ or ‘modern’?

Those are, of course, the easiest terms. Now it gets tricky. (laughs) I’d say: straightforward and honest. Of course, a plate should look attractive, but ultimately it’s all about the guests enjoying their meal. I don’t want to overwhelm anyone with too much acidity or unusual flavours. At the end of the day, we all just want to enjoy a delicious meal. If a dish is harmonious and well-rounded, then that’s in line with my philosophy.

Which product is completely underrated? And which is completely overrated?

I think gold leaf is overrated because it has absolutely no flavour and serves no purpose other than to look pretty. Completely pointless, if you ask me. For me, flavour always comes first; aesthetics come second. That’s why I’d rather invest in better quality than a bit of frills on top. On the other hand, I think celery is underrated. You can do so much with it: purée, crisps or confit celery with brown butter – it tastes brilliant.

What’s the biggest misconception guests have about haute cuisine?

The biggest cliché is probably that you don’t get enough to eat. Sure, the portions are smaller. But when you’re served five courses, snacks, bread and a little something to finish off, it all adds up. I regularly go out for excellent meals myself and have never gone home hungry – quite the opposite, in fact.

What does luxury mean to you, and how would you define luxury on a plate?

For me, luxury is getting the very best quality product. For example, we source trout and char from a fish farm just twenty minutes away from the hotel. The fish are slaughtered and delivered on the same day. Sometimes we even have to store them in cold storage for another day because of rigor mortis before we can fillet them. Working with products like these is simply a joy. For me, that’s true luxury. When I have that, I don’t necessarily need caviar or truffles.

When do you consider a dish to be finished?

It varies greatly. Sometimes you have an idea and it works straight away. Sometimes, after the first attempt, you realise, ‘Oh my goodness, that’s not going to work at all.’ And you scrap the whole idea. Other times, the flavour is right, but the presentation isn’t quite there yet. Then you keep working on it. Of course, it’s best when an idea works perfectly straight away.

And what do you actually get up to when you’re not standing at the hob?

I enjoy spending time with my girlfriend and relaxing. But I also like meeting up with friends, playing darts or watching football.

That’s ideal right now, isn’t it?

That’s true. And of course I also enjoy going out for a meal. Simply because it’s fun to see what other chefs are doing. It’s a sort of further training (laughs).

You’re in the final of the ‘Chef of the Year’ competition. What does taking part in this mean to you personally?

An awful lot. Just getting to the semi-finals made me really happy. My main aim back then was simply to serve the dishes exactly as I’d imagined them, and then see where the journey took me. As more and more positive feedback came in, my hopes of reaching the final naturally grew. Then you really want to see how far you can go. And I’m naturally very proud of the positive feedback I’ve received from so many Michelin-starred chefs.

The semi-final was all about childhood memories. How did you come up with your dish?

I decided to go for a whole poularde. There’s actually a story behind it from my grandfather’s life: He used to work as a head waiter in a luxury hotel in Cologne. And they served whole poulet there too. But as all the wealthy guests only ever wanted the chicken breast, he and his colleagues would sit together after work and eat the leftovers. That’s also where he met my grandmother, who worked as a chambermaid. The two of them were married for over sixty years. That touched me and ultimately inspired me.

Is the anticipation greater than the pressure at the moment – or does the pressure outweigh it?

Definitely the anticipation. I think the tension tends to set in about one or two weeks beforehand. In competitions like this, you have to bring everything yourself, from the knife to the chopping board. My biggest worry is usually not the cooking itself, but that I’ll forget something. To be honest, most of it’s already packed away in boxes, ready for November.

But before you set off, let’s benefit from your expertise. Here in southern Germany, people love a good sauce. And plenty of it. What’s your secret tip for an excellent sauce?

Patience. For our roast sauce at the Auerhahn, we keep making a fresh batch every day for four days. Of course, you wouldn’t really do that at home. But the same principle applies here: take your time – and stir in a good knob of butter at the end.

If you’d like to experience Lukas Baumgartner’s cuisine for yourself, it’s best to book a table at the Auerhahn straight away.

→ auerhahn-hotel.com