Rising Tide: An interview with surfer Leon Glatzer

Mr Glatzer, the Olympic motto is: ‘Taking part is everything’. But, hand on heart, didn’t you actually want a bit more?

Of course I wanted more, that’s for sure. Anyone who goes to the Olympic Games naturally wants a medal. But there are only three of them, and unfortunately it didn’t work out this time. But I’ve still got two or three Games ahead of me. Now it’s time to train flat out for Paris 2024.

It was only a difference of 0.10 points, so it was extremely close.

Yes, shortly after my run I was absolutely livid. I just needed a wave with a bit more potential, one that would give me room for another manoeuvre. But the conditions were just very difficult. And in surfing, you always need a bit of luck.

Where are you actually at the moment?

I’m currently in Moliets-et-Maa in France. I always live here for a few months a year – usually from the start of July for three months – and train.

Today as well?

No, not yet, because yesterday was our big training day. A day like that starts at six in the morning – we go surfing, come back, have breakfast, head back to the beach, and do some beach training. In the afternoon, we go surfing again or hit the gym.

That sounds monotonous.

It might sound that way, but our coach is very good and often changes the type of training, so that the brain is always experiencing something new. So it can happen that we’re on the beach and the coach suddenly announces that we’re going to train with footballs or tennis balls.

How did you get into surfing in the first place?

I first got on a surfboard with my mum when I was four. I then started surfing on my own and at some point told her that I wanted to become a professional surfer.

And what was her response?

She said I should follow my dreams. 

And what happened next?

My mum received an email from my current agent, who wrote that he wanted to work with me. He then sorted out the contracts very quickly; I was only 14 at the time and suddenly had a sponsor, a team and lots of competitions. It was a bit difficult at first because I was on my own. Sure, there was the team, but no mum, no dad, no brother. It was just me. But ten years later, I was competing at the Olympic Games.

How would you describe yourself?

I was born in Hawaii and grew up in a small town in the south of Costa Rica; my parents are German. I came from nothing, started from scratch and worked hard. And with hard work, you can achieve anything.

What does surfing mean to you?

It’s my life; I couldn’t do without it. I always have to be near the water. Just seeing the sea is enough – then my brain starts surfing.

Surf culture is often portrayed in a romantic light. Is it really such a perfect, beautiful world?

Yes and no. Amateur surfers are always looking for the perfect wave; they’re on the beach, in the sun, and they see the beauty in it. There’s nothing wrong with that – it is romantic, a paradise. The life of a professional surfer, however, is quite different. Of course, there are days when we have time off, but normally we’re training. When the waves are good, we head out – come rain, storm or wind. We surf with a specific goal in mind, talk to the coach afterwards, then head back out. It’s very exhausting, but it’s also worth it. And for me, winning a major competition is the best feeling ever. In that respect, all those tough days are better than a perfect wave.

Do you tempt fate?

When you’re surfing big and dangerous waves, you certainly do a bit. I do think, though, that that’s exactly when you’re most fully in the moment, most focused.

And what about fear?

As a professional surfer, you feel fear too, because you’re on your own. You travel for eleven months of the year and only have your team as your family. Sometimes you feel sad, want to go home, worry that you won’t make it, or that you’ll lose at the Olympics or in a competition. I’d still call it positive pressure, though, because I’ve chosen this path – and I’ve also chosen to succeed.

You do motocross as well, is that right?

Yes and no – I’m a huge fan; it’s one of my favourite sports, and my brother’s also very successful in motocross. And during the pandemic, I was at home for half a year – in fact, it was the first time I’d been there since I was 15. I was at the motocross track with my brother almost every day and we had an absolute blast. But I wasn’t allowed to ride before the Olympics, and I’m not allowed to now either. It would simply be unwise, because the risk of injury is too high.

Should everyone take up surfing?

Of course! The great thing about surfing is that you can start with very small waves and it’s not dangerous. You gradually get better and can tackle bigger waves. Anyone can do it. And if you fall, you fall into the water – and nothing happens.

Can you give us three quick tips for improving your balance?

A strong core, solid leg muscles and no alcohol. (laughs)

You once mentioned Jordy Smith as a role model. Why?

I used to watch videos of him all the time, learnt a lot and wanted to be just like him. He’s about the same build as me – very tall – and we have a similar style. He’s one of the best surfers in the world and just a cool bloke. He’s always smiling, too.

What makes him so cool – is it the smile? That’s typical of you too.

Yes, definitely – for me, smiling is everything; it’s positive energy that I always want to pass on.

What would you change if you had the power to do so?

I think a great deal about sustainability. Our world is suffering; it’s on fire...